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 WINE
AND FOOD IN THE BIG EASY
By Doc Lawrence
There is just no place like New
Orleans. Europe in America. And still the most southern large city we
have. Creole, Caribbean, French and Italian cuisine coexist quite comfortably
with traditional foods like grits. I have enjoyed grits at some of the
world’s most renowned New Orleans’ restaurants, where they
are not described as polenta. More often than not, I’ve had them
with that quintessential meat dish, grillades, all washed down by indescribably
great wines.
We’re here again to talk about wine and food, New Orleans-style.
My heart somehow survived my annual visit to the New Orleans Wine and
Food Experience as a media guest, and I confess that with the exception
of the London International Wine Festival, it is the best of the best.
Besides, what better place on earth could you hold such an event? You
can actually walk everywhere and if you want to travel, there’s
the streetcar (which I take up St. Charles to Carrolton to visit the
divine boutique, Yvonne LeFluer, enjoy champagne with the gorgeous models
and leave after purchasing some exquisite gifts for the ladies, including
a bottle of Yvonne’s signature
perfume for someone special).
The New Orleans Wine and Food Experience has been around long enough
now to claim some well-deserved pedigree. This is not an easy production
because it is in a city where food and wine standards are very high.
Mediocrity would swiftly be laughed out of town. Charging  exorbitant
fees for a splash of popular-label wine accompanied by unimaginative
finger food all served in plastic won’t sell here in the Big Easy.
But, purveyors from the four corners of wine making, offering their
finest to a genuinely sophisticated assemblage of patrons sparked enthusiasm
and promoted wine sales, particularly when accompanied by Dixieland
Jazz and food from this city’s legendary kitchens.
Instead of holding the event in a fortress
environment, the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience immerses patrons
and media in the culture of this remarkable city. Beginning with the
spectacular vintner’s dinner at the incomparable Broussard’s
on Rue Conti in the French Quarter, everyone knew that expectations
of things to come should be set much higher. What, we whispered, would
be next and what could possibly be better?
Our questions were soon answered.
The Royal Street Stroll, like everything
of quality with this function, traditionally begins with a press party
at Brennan’s, the multiple award-winning restaurant that is synonymous
with the glamour, luxury and tastefulness associated with New Orleans
upper scale lifestyle. After stuffing ourselves with shrimp, oysters,
crabmeat and other delicacies accompanied by fine wine chosen by cellar
master Harry Duncan from Brennan’s huge, on-premises cellar (the
largest in the US, including Bern’s in Tampa which houses its thousands
of bottles in another location), I visited the truly great art galleries
and antique furniture stores on this most walkable thoroughfare, and
found a few treasures to send home.
Lunch was held the next day at the New Orleans Museum of Art, one of
the best in the country. Great wine accompanied more superb food in
the romantic setting of a room adorned with priceless masterpieces.
This served as a reminder to the uninitiated that New Orleans is much
more than Mardi Gras
and Jazz Fest. It is a city where the arts thrive and cultural preservation
is considered a prime responsibility of the community.
Thursday evening in the Big Easy was capped off by a signature party
(didn’t partying originate in New Orleans?), at Muriel’s at
Jackson Square. With the weather being tolerable, the affair was appropriately
held outdoors under a glorious Louisiana sky where guests again were
treated to culinary excellence along with an array of more great wines.
Friday and Saturday are “working days”, which meant attending
meaningful seminars where speakers were acknowledged experts like the
incomparable D. C. Flynt and author journalist Thom Elkjer and included
renowned vintners and chefs. The concentration this year was much more
on Champagne, Alsatian wines and Pinot Noir than in previous years and
enthusiasm dominated. After all, how can a civilized modern American
ever learn enough about such regal and romantic wines?
Leadership at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience is what really
makes this worthwhile and increasingly successful. Tim McNally heads
this cause célèbre and he summarized what makes this special
and better. Here’s my pal Tim with words just for readers in other
cities:
“No other event celebrates its local cuisine and ties it so closely
to the winemaker’s art. We combine our favorite dishes from our
great chefs, all served at our Grand Tastings. In a freeway-infested
universe, littered with neon signs of same as next-door establishments,
New Orleans fosters creativity—variations on a theme--based upon
what comes from our soils and waters. Our rich gumbo of blended cultures
permeates everything here, including our plates and stemware. Our heritage
is protected, and, as our friends in the great city of Atlanta know,
we really can throw a party!”
The affair ended with an intimate dinner at Pasqual’s Manale restaurant
on Napoleon Avenue in the Garden District. Great wines from France and
Italy accompanied fresh oysters, turtle soup and barbeque shrimp. We
said good-bye, returned home happily satisfied, wondering how next year’s
event could possibly be better.
 EDITOR’S
NOTE: Once again, Doc
Lawrence was selected as a media invitee for the prestigious wine awards
competition at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience. While in New
Orleans, Doc stayed at the Wyndham on Canal Street, one of the City's
finest hotels. Enjoy a stroll with him and see some of the sights:
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The
Cabildo, adjacent to the Cathedral of St. Louis in Jackson Square, has
Napolean Bonaparte's death mask on display. This building, where the
Louisiana Purchase was consummated, is Louisiana's State Museum.
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Doc
discovered this new sculpture of the immortal Ignatius J. Reilley, the
main character in John Kennedy Toole's classic which is set in New Orleans,
"A Confederacy Of Dunces."
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To
enhance your next New Orleans stay take a look at: 
